I am new at TFP. I've read through the HELP menu and read the blogs but I am still having trouble with gable roofs. Please help - what am I doing wrong?
I am trying to make the roof with all Gables but one is always coming off - either still shows as a HIP or shows as a gable but the wall is 5 stories tall with no ridge in the roof.
Also, is it possible to move the "ROOF RIDGE LINE" location?
On the one attached file (AutoHouse06.bld), it has a dormer - the roof pitch is set for 12/12 (or at least I think it is) but appears to be a 4/12 or so. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Hi Garry,
Welcome to the forum.
Can you just clarify which edges of the roof are to be Gable? You said ALL - do you mean literally all?
To get adjacent edges to be gable you need to right click and Break the roof right near the corner then set the gable to the section between the two breaks.
You can move the ridge line by changing the slope on one side or draw the roof "by Picking Point" and set the ridge where you want it then use the right click on one edge and select Move Edge - Adjust Support Height and drag the edge to where it should be.
The roof on '06' is set to 12/12 (45 degrees) - the dormer is set to 4/12.
Hope that makes some sense - if it is too brief ask again for more detail.
Allan
Allen,
Thank you for the quick reply.
I kept working with it and finally got it after picking up something about the "break" in the blogs.
When I said "all gables", I meant the ends that were hips - so not totally all - just no hip ends.
Just for my curiosity, why is it so hard to get gable ends (seems like many others ran into the same problems I did) with this software when they are probably the most common type of roof? Why is there not a direct setting like there is for hip, mansard, etc.
What is causing that "5 story tall wall" in the file #7 that I forwarded to you? Why is there not a ridge in the middle?
In the attached file, I have the roof the way I want it but in the "2D" view it shows a line going from the ridge of the gable over the garage to the ridge on the main part of the house. This does not appear in the "3D" views though. What is going on here?
Thanks again and this "Forum" was very helpful. Also, I am very impressed with the Turbo FloorPlan software.
Hi Garry,
Glad to hear you are getting there!
I suspect there is not such a thing as "gable only roof" because it would raise the question over which ends are gables. If all sides are gable it makes a flat roof! By default a hip is used and you just change the ends that you want to gable.
It is actualy not hard to get gable ends in TFP. For your roof a simple rectangle was all you needed (drawn "By Picking Points"), changing the two ends to gables. Then again use "By Picking Points" to draw the gable end that sticks out at the front making sure that the rectangle you draw goes well inside the line of the original rectangular roof. When you right click "Finish" (before making the last join, just let the program make the fourth side) this will then snap in and become part of the main roof. You then just change that end to a gable. The dormer could be done the same way. For me this will not work on your existing roof as it appear to be at a different level, almost as though you have changed the Location settings after doing the walls or the roof configuration has been changed. Doing this now inserts the roof at the top of the 9' walls so it does not snap into the main roof which is lower.
The 5 story tall wall is just because there is a gable (vertical face) on both edges of the roof - there is nothing to tell it to stop on the corner (a break) so it assumes the gable runs right around the corner, since this is in effect what you have told it and so the roof continues at the same pitch.
The line from the gable to the main roof ridge actually is there in 3D (see the image) but it is hard to see unless you get up close. It is caused by a slightly different roof level and in the image the sun shows this up. If you drag the edge of the roof that the dormer is on, you will notice the gap will grow or shrink and cause another hip. Just move that edge until the line goes or is at its narrowest.
Hope that helps.
Are you going to use the roof space as an attic? Let us know if you are, as there are a few little tricks to get this right. Easier to get the tips rather than waste a lot of time experimenting!
Allan
Thanks again for the reply.
Thanks for sending the picture - I guess I couldn't see it on the scale I was at.
I have already spent a lot of time experimenting - I learned a lot through this Forum.
Yes I plan to use the attic space as a 2nd floor, I also plan to use the area above the garage. I have a more detailed 1st floor plan drawn up. I haven't worked on the second floor yet.
My house plans are for a "Cape Cod" - 1 story in the front, 2 story in the back, plus full walk out basement (making it 3 story in back). 2nd floor will have "zero" walls in the front, 8 ft. wall at the back of the house.
Roof to be 12/12 everywhere except rear of house where it will have 5/12 roof over the 8' walls - basically a "Salt Box" house. Roof to over hang a 7x24 porch in the front. Gables on the right end, left end and over the garage(32'w x 24' deep) - no hips.
After spending a bit of time trying it as 2 story, then one story - I then found out about the forum and started reading the blogs about setting the 2nd floor with "basically a zero" wall height - which makes sense, I just didn't think about it.
I am going to redraw my plans with these changes - hopefully I will not need any help but I am always open to any suggestions, recommendations and/or help.
Another issue I have been having that you may be able to help me with is the site plan.
I started by plotting the lot by its bearing (ie "S85 38'00"), with North straight up at top of page.
I then try placing house 7' off PL and parallel to property line but could turn house. It has been suggested that I set the property lines parall and perpendicular and change the direction of "North". This is different than any site plans I have worked with and what I was taught in drafting classes.
Any suggestions?
Thanks again and really looking forward to using the program after learning the "tips & tricks".
Hi again Garry,
It sounds like you have the ideas correct for the type of house you are building. Near zero walls is a hard concept for some to grasp. A couple of thoughts: Make sure with your top storey (8' to zero walls) that you have the walls set to 8' (in Building Locations) and on 'Auto extend to roof' before you draw the roof. Draw the roof 'by picking points' as a rectangle at the 8' point and drag the roof on the zero side by right clicking, select Move Edge - Adjust Support Height. If you have the pitch and dimensions correct, that edge so go down to zero and the walls will be 'clipped' accordingly.
Quote from: Garry on February 15, 2011, 05:54:02 PM
Another issue I have been having that you may be able to help me with is the site plan.
I started by plotting the lot by its bearing (ie "S85 38'00"), with North straight up at top of page.
I then try placing house 7' off PL and parallel to property line but could turn house. It has been suggested that I set the property lines parall and perpendicular and change the direction of "North". This is different than any site plans I have worked with and what I was taught in drafting classes.
Any suggestions?
I would definitely recommend that you draw the building parallel to the screen and adjust the north point. You can rotate the house later if you want or draw it at the angle to start with, but the latter is MUCH harder to do. The Ortho setting (which guarentees right angled walls) will not work of course and every object will normally insert parallel to the screen, so you will be battling all the time. To rotate the house later (all floors) you need to go to Settings/ Progrmame Settings / Building Aids and untick the box "Select elements on curent location only in plan view", then turn off Collision (Status Bar) and use Ctrl A (Select All) to make sure you select everything. Now right click, select Rotate and select the point around which you want the building to rotate. Don't forget to tick the "Select elements on curent location only in plan view" box again afterwards.
Bear in mind that TFP is not a 2D plan drawing program but is designed to create 3D visualisation models. Basically the plan is only drawn to create the 3D model so it is not optimised for drawing plans for printing. For that you need the parent program (Envisioneer) to do it simply, or use the technique in this post: http://forums.turbofloorplan.com/index.php/topic,877.0.html (http://forums.turbofloorplan.com/index.php/topic,877.0.html).
I hope these thoughts help.
Allan
The house issue:
I am still having a lot of trouble getting it to come out just right - I continue to get close.
Would you recommend using or not using the "HOUSE BUILDER WIZARD" for this type of house?
I spent a lot of time at first NOT using the "Wizard" and most recently I have been using the "Wizard".
When working with the roof, does the "Break" have to go into an exact location?
Also, with the 3 car garage - the space above (attic area) the garage (with "zero walls" & gable roof) is going to be finished 2nd floor space. Using the "Wizard" - if I include the garage it does not pick up the above area as finished area. The best I have done so far is draw the garage as if it was a "living area" of the first floor. Any suggestions?
Thanks again for your help.
Dormer:
I was trying to move the location of the dormer but was not able to - the best I could do was delete it by pieces but then that left a hole in the roof. Any suggestions?
Also, this plan (and roof) is what I want but I drew it as a ranch and I want the "attic area" to be my second floor. Is it possible to make the changes to this plan or would I need to just start over. The only main change I want to make is have an 8' wall in the back of the house in the attic area.
If I keep what I have so I can at least use the elevation views - is there a way to place windows in the "attic area"?
I didn't know if you needed the files - they are attached if you need them.
I continued to work on it as a 2 story with the front and side walls set to 1" & 8' in the back. The 1" wall are not there but the roof is "up as if they were there. The roof does not come down to 1" above the floor.
Hi Garry,
Sorry but our 12 hour time difference is not helping is it?
I will try to answer your questions one at a time where possible within your posts.
Quote from: Garry on February 18, 2011, 12:16:06 AM
Would you recommend using or not using the "HOUSE BUILDER WIZARD" for this type of house?
I spent a lot of time at first NOT using the "Wizard" and most recently I have been using the "Wizard".
The Wizard is really just to get new users started quickly - I doubt it can really cope with 'out of the ordinary' buildings. Having said that I have never actually used it other than to have a play and see what it does.
When working with the roof, does the "Break" have to go into an exact location?
Breaks can be anywhere. If you zoom in really close you can move them to get the effect you want.
Also, with the 3 car garage - the space above (attic area) the garage (with "zero walls" & gable roof) is going to be finished 2nd floor space. Using the "Wizard" - if I include the garage it does not pick up the above area as finished area. The best I have done so far is draw the garage as if it was a "living area" of the first floor. Any suggestions?
You may have to restart the project, or at least the roof, as you have the roof inserted on the ground floor but it needs to be on the second floor so that the walls will extend to the roof properly, especially the 8' to zero walls. It may be adjustable to get what you are aiming for but could be a lot of work. If you have an 8' wall on one side decreasing to zero on the other, then the ridge is not in the centre (obviously). You need to draw a rectangular roof centred on the ridge line, from the 8' wall to the ridge and the same distance the other side. This will fix your ridge and pitch, then right click Move / 'Adjust support height' of the zero wall side of the roof. This part of the roof will stretch sideways and the support height (and hence the walls) will decrease as you move the edge to the zero point.
Quote from: Garry on February 18, 2011, 12:50:49 AM
Dormer:
I was trying to move the location of the dormer but was not able to - the best I could do was delete it by pieces but then that left a hole in the roof. Any suggestions?
Select the roof, right click and select Remove Opening. Move the mouse over the opening edge (you should see a cross in a circle) click it. Click elsewhere then select the roof again. Right click and select Update Roof. Seems a bit 'round about' but the only way I could get it to work.
Also, this plan (and roof) is what I want but I drew it as a ranch and I want the "attic area" to be my second floor. Is it possible to make the changes to this plan or would I need to just start over. The only main change I want to make is have an 8' wall in the back of the house in the attic area. Earlier comments answer this.
If I keep what I have so I can at least use the elevation views - is there a way to place windows in the "attic area"?
If you have the Second Floor as the attic and this is where you insert the roof ,then the windows will automatically be in the attic area. To insert a window into a gable, right click and use Elevate to move it up into the gable.
Quote from: Garry on February 18, 2011, 02:00:24 AM
I continued to work on it as a 2 story with the front and side walls set to 1" & 8' in the back. The 1" wall are not there but the roof is "up as if they were there. The roof does not come down to 1" above the floor.
The walls of the second floor are set to 8' in Building Locations and the wall you use to draw the second floor walls should be set to 'Auto Extend to roof'. Do not change the wall heights - the roof will do that if you follow the description I gave earlier. Altering the height of an individual wall will not change the roof - it is inserted at the wall height of the location on which it is inserted (8') - the walls themselves will have no effect on the roof. It works the other way around - the roof will adjust the wall heights of that location as long as they are set to Auto Extend.
I hope you were able to follow all that. If anything is not clear just ask again for clarification.
Allan