Wall Joining

[Digitalteck]

In a normal envoirment  or in some cases when a builder builds a block wall for basements say it is 20 feet long by 10 feet high  they will start at one end and go to the other stagering the blocks and cut half blocks at the end to make the wall straight so that you can butt the wall against another wall etc to make a 90 degree.

I noticed this program cuts the block in 45 degree angles when joining the wall and it is viewed in 3D as 45 degree angle.

My walls are butted together.

The 45 degree joining is ok for each 4 outer walls I not worried about that,  but I have a 4 ft high block wall going across my basement seperating the area under the livingroom that is dirt filled.

In the drawing when make the wall going across it joins  the walls in a 45 degree angle and in 3D mode it looks cutout with one straight and other  two at 45 degree angle. 

Is there a way to turn off wall joining to allow you to butt walls against each other.

This also apples to other walls also.

[Allan Chesney]

I am having a little difficulty understanding your explanation of the problem. Just to clarify, are you referring to the situation where a lower wall meets a higher one, that leaves a 45° angle in the upper half of the higher wall?

If this is what you mean, you can break the join by draging the end of the shorter wall back a fraction so you leave just a tiny gap that will not show in 3D.

As a general rule however, walls assume the height specified in Building Locations. If you have different wall heights then these wall would be on a different location and would not join and hence your issue would not occur.

If I have misunderstood your question however I may be 'barking up the wrong tree'.

Allan

[Doug.S]

My interpretation of the question/problem is that looking at a plan view, the corner wall joins are with a 45 degree angle (for a 90 degree corner) bisecting the corner rather than each wall being squared at the ends and abutting one another.

I'd suggest the OP supply a picture or two to show the area in question and perhaps a sketch as to what is desired.

I think TFP can make walls look like butt joined corners by either not actually making the join (freestanding individual walls) by moving them very close together in a highly zoomed-in view. May be OK but results in no "room" being formed; causing issues for floors, ceiling, and roofs.

Alternatively each wall could be on a different location (each setup the same) to avoid walls from joining together.

Another way is to not use walls but use a "cube" shape re-sized o look like a wall and manually position and abut each as needed.

In any of above, there are means to then resolve floors, ceilings or roof problems if they arise.

[Digitalteck]

Thanks for the replies, Yes Doug you are correct  about 45 degree angles and also abutted is the correct word I was looking for.

TurboFloor plan will join walls together at 45 degree angles when you put two wall together either end to end or 90 degree.

I worked in construction in my late 20's early 30's working on new homes. I rarely ever seen a brick layer or carpenter miter 45 degree angles in their walls, they are always abutted together
This poses a problem I seen so far for the half of the duplex I rent from.  To draw this on a plan seems more a nightmare than I thought it would be.

The basement walls do touch the ground all the way around. A 15x12 section was left dirt, they dug around to make the walls and filled it  back in but only 4 feet high so there was a craw space with  a retaining wall  going across.

The rest basement  was poured concrete with drains.  I quess someone got lazy and did not want to have a full basement

The basement  is one level.

Now on the 15 x 12 area the basement wall 68 high"

The rest of the basement wall is at 81 high"

In Allen's  other posts for split levels in  turbofloor plan you really have 3 Building Locations.

1-   The foundation/basement     
2-   The Ground Level  68"
3-    Second Level because the remaining of the block wall was raised to 81". 

13" difference in height
Now the Floor joists are run across th
e plywood floor is layed.
Then the 6" outside walls along with red brick on the outside is built.
In turbofloor plan  by what I seen so far In order for an exterior wall red brick to show up, all 4 walls needs to be up.

Since I am dealing with an odd building that has two levels that are 13 inches different in height.
I had to add a 4 inch wood wall on the 4th side of the 15 x12 area that is the ground level so the red  brick would show up .

If I go to second floor and put up the walls I have to put another wall on the 4th side so the red brick shows up.
So  I have   2  -  4 " walls  back to back.

But since a builder can cheat from a design program and fill gaps in where needed   I only have 1  - 4 inch inside wall separating the two levels back to back.

Now if I look in 3D view you see the end of the 4 " wood walls on the outside because the program 45 degreed the wall instead of abutting it so there is missing red bricks in that section.

The house appears that the 15x 12 was an add on but according to the 92 year old neighbor who saw them build it was build all at the same time and her mother lived there on my side.

Again I will post a picture.

There was another program  I used and not sure which one it was but when designing walls there is an option to turn off wall joining.  Meaning not to make 45 degree angles.

I hope this explains more in detail

[Allan Chesney]

I think I am starting to get the idea of the building but an image would be great.

You are right that to get the exterior brick texture to show the walls must join OR...

1.  Check the box 'Force surface to be exterior' in Wall Properties

2. Join the wall ends using the Room Divide tool (virtually an invisible wall) which will terminate these walls at right angles.

I am still not sure what the problem is with the wall corners being mitred. This does not show on the plan (unless you select a wall of course) and does not show when printed, so I am obviously still not understanding something here. An image of what you are seeing would probably help. Other than a half wall joining into a full height wall I cannot think of anywhere the mitre would show.

Allan

[Jack Zimmer]

Not sure on your detail needs but if you are worried about an end condition that is mitered, you can pull the wall past the joint. Once it has been extended, select the small 'lap' wall section, select the dimesion and enter a very small dimension like 1/8". This will make the end rectangular and the 1/8" will not be that critical to the layout.

Jack